How to Tie the Texas Ringworm Fly (Step by Step)

This fly was designed for one simple purpose…to completely revolutionize the way we fly fish for bass in this country. To put fly fisherman on the same playing field as every conventional gear bass fisherman from southern California to the famous lakes in Florida. Every warm water fly tier has claimed to invent a fly that is the equivalent to the Texas-rigged rubber worm (one of the most commonly and effectively used tricks in conventional bass fishing). But almost all of them are no more than a ratty piece of chenille with some misshapen piece of rabbit hide glued to the end of it. But, once I had perfected the ferruled dubbing loop tail of the Geezus Lizard I had a decent “worm” taken care of…all I needed to do was to create an effective internal hook mechanism. This fly is absolutely deadly. I prefer to fish it with floating line when on small bass ponds, on a sink tip fly line when on a river or larger reservoir. The sink tip treats the fly just like a “Carolina rigged” plastic worm.

In conventional bass angling the weedless-rigged rubber worm is such a mainstay because it is simple and easy to rig, appears natural and unhindered in the water and—most importantly—seldom fouls or snags. A fly equivalent to this lure is not commercially available.

Whereas many hard-core conventional bass fishermen tend to fish larger bodies of water, the vast majority of the weekend worrier warm-water fly fishermen across the country spend their Saturdays not astride a Hunter bass boat on a large reservoir…but behind a neighbors’ barn harassing the farm-pond bass. The major handicap these fledgling fly casters have burdened themselves with (and what will, in the end, keep them forever loyal and tethered to the spinning rod) is a severe lack of proper fly-replacements for their go-to conventional lures and rubber baits.

The Texas Ringworm is a simple fly to rig and fish when compared to its rubber-worm contemporaries. The hard-mono loop keeps the large TMC 8089 hook facing up and snag free. It stays in place even through the longest or brutal casting, but detaches immediately once a bass eats and the hook is set. Once the fish has been detached, the hard-mono loop is easily re-attached.

Texas Ringworm Recipe (Or buy online for $5.99 each)

Black Eel

Tail
Hook: TMC 105 #4
Thread 1: Daville’s 3/0 waxed monocord—dark brown (used as main dubbing loop)
Thread 2: Uni-Thread 6/0 black (used as small finishing dubbing loop)
Tip: Fluorescent Green Chartreuse McFlyfoam
Dubbing 1: Poul Jorgensen SLF Salmon & Steelhead dubbing “claret black”
Dubbing 2: Poul Jorgensen SLF Salmon & Steelhead dubbing “peacock”
Gangion: Hard Mono or Fluoro (.017) and Hareline Dubbin standard tubing “brown”

Body
Hook: TMC 8089 #2
Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0 olive
Throat 1: Fluorescent red marabou
Throat 2: Golden olive marabou
Main Body: Magnum rabbit strip “black”
Topping: 3 feathers Hareline Dubbin “Grizzly Marabou Olive” (GRIZM263)

Head
Core: Loon UV fly paint “yellow”
Eyes: Hareline Dubbin 3/16” Oval Pupil 3D Eyes Red/Black Pupil (OP3310)
Bottom: Loon UV fly paint “red”
Top: Loon UV Knot Sense
Outer Coating: Loon UV Knot Sense, then final coat of Hard-as-Hull

Sunfish

Tail
Hook: TMC 105 #4
Thread 1: Daville’s 3/0 waxed monocord—white (used as main dubbing loop)
Thread 2: Uni-Thread 6/0 olive (used as small finishing dubbing loop)
Tip: Montana Fly Frog’s Hair golden yellow
Dubbing 1: Dave Whitlock SLF dubbing “minnow belly”
Dubbing 2: Dave Whitlock SLF dubbing “dragonfly nymph olive”
Gangion: Hard Mono or Fluoro (.017) and Hareline Dubbin standard tubing “light olive”

Body
Hook: TMC 8089 #2
Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0 olive
Throat 1: Fluorescent red marabou
Throat 2: Shell pink marabou
Main Body: Olive Barred Magnum rabbit strip “light olive” (Hareline BMR212)
Topping: 3 feathers Hareline Dubbin “Grizzly Marabou Olive” (GRIZM263)

Head
Core: Loon UV fly paint “yellow”
Eyes: Hareline Dubbin 3/16” Oval Pupil 3D Eyes Orange/Black Pupil (OP3271)
Bottom: Loon UV fly paint “red”
Top: Loon UV Knot Sense
Outer Coating: Loon UV Knot Sense, then final coat of Hard-as-Hull

Tying step 1 Create 8 inch dubbing loop using 3 strands of 3/0 waxed monocord. Dubbing 1: Dave Whitlock SLF dubbing “minnow belly”, Tip: Montana Fly Frog’s Hair golden yellow, Dubbing 2: Dave Whitlock SLF dubbing “dragonfly nymph olive”. Twist and create Geezus Lizard tail by allowing twisted dubbing loop to furrel back over itself.
See More on this Method!

 

Tying step 2 Mount tail onto TMC 105 size 4 hook using Zap-a-Gap to reinforce hold to the hook shank. Then create small three-tone dubbing loop to cover junction and continue tail variegation

Tying step 3 Apply very small amount of Zap-a-Gap to junction of tail tip

Tying step 4 Trim and taper tail tip, also brush out entire tail using dubbing brush. The finished tail should be 2 ½ inches long. Cut the hook point off with heavy wire cutters.

Tying step 5 Cut a 6 inch piece of .017 hard mono or Rio Fluoroflex tippet, loop through eye and slide on a quarter inch of Hairline Standard Tubing

Tying step 6 On a TMC 8089 #2 tie in two throat tuffs of marabou using olive thread

Tying step 7 Double-thread the mono into the magnum rabbit strip

Tying step 8 Slip mono loop over hook point and over the bend

Tying step 9 Thread mono into hook eye and then tie down and adjust length of mono so hinge works correctly. There should be a slight “click” when the loop is properly engaged

Tying step 10 Once mono is adjusted correctly, finish tying it down and trim off tags on the underside. Apply some Zap-a-Gap to insure that it is secure and will not move or slip

Tying step 11 Bring the rabbit strip over and tie down at head of fly

Tying step 12 Tie in 2 or 3 pieces of olive grizzly marabou on top of the rabbit strip

Tying step 13 Trim marabou and whip finish...once tall, but narrow head has been built

Tying step 14 Coat head with yellow UV fly paint. It will appear green when applied over the green thread

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tying step 15 Stick on eyes

Tying step 16 Flip upside down and apply red UV fly paint

Tying step 17 Fill in top of head with clear UV knot sense, also cover entire head with thin coating of the knot sense. Then apply a final coat of Hard as Hull or some other head cement. This final coat will leave the head with a super clear finish